The ‘Courtil des Fées’, Morbihan
This month I’ve been back to Brittany, one of my favourite (and most successful) hunting grounds. Every time return to Morbihan, a region steeped in myths and legends, I wonder if I will finally run out of weird and wonderful places to discover, but every time I uncover more magical locations. This visit was particularly fruitful, so you can expect my next few posts to be filled with my Breton adventures!
My first destination on this trip was the enigmatically named Courtil des Fées, a phrase which translates roughly as ‘fairy courtyard’. As with many of my expeditiions, the journey to the Courtil des Fées began with a track leading into shady woodlands, in this case the Forest of Houssa. Althought it was severely damaged by fire in the 1980s, this ancient wood is slowly reestablishing itself, and still retains its magical wildness. At this time of year, the path leading into the forest is noisier than usual, littered as it is with crackling branches and crunching acorns.
The Courtil des Fées is located on a ridge high above the Oust valley, not far from the tiny village of Beaumont. Archaeological investigations suggest that this ridge was inhabited by humans for many centuries before the trees reclaimed it. The first evidence of these ancient inhabitants that I encountered was the remains of a four thousand year old neolithic burial mound which lies deep in the forest, sitting in a pretty clearing surrounded by oaks, birches and ferns.
Just a few metres away can be found a small standing stone, which no doubt also formed a part of this ancient burial site. Some evidence of carved ‘cup marks’ can be seen on this mossy menhir.
It’s just another short walk to the Courtil des Fées itself, a raised round earthwork with a diameter of around twelve metres surrounded by a ditch. Known for generations as a magical place, the Courtil has long been considered the haunt of fairies. But these fairies are not the sweet little winged sprites of Disney cartoons, but nasty, wicked imps who were reputed to steal local babies from their cots. Not surprising then that I approached this place with some trepidation.
The Courtil is not particularly easy to decipher, or indeed to photograph, at this time of year, its ditch and mound rather lost in the autumnal undergrowth, but its raised platform is hard to miss. As I entered its circle, the sky darkened and the wind suddenly lifted, sending a shower of acorns and chestnuts clattering to the ground around me. If I hadn’t known better, I might have suspected that someone (or something) didn’t want me to be there.
I had been promised a great vista of the valley below from the Courtil, but in fact the view was almost totally blocked by the dense wall of trees that surrounds it. In the end I didn’t hang around for long, taking a couple of photos before I headed off back towards Beaumont. As I walked away the sun reemerged and the wind faded. Back in the peaceful forest of Houssa, the Courtil des Fées far behind, I’m not ashamed to say that I breathed a tiny sigh of relief.
October 21, 2015 at 11:02 am
Gorgeous, what a beautiful and mysterious place 🙂
October 21, 2015 at 3:03 pm
Yes it really has a mysterious atmosphere to it, quite a rare thing.
October 21, 2015 at 11:59 am
This was excellent; and you did know better; it’s good to trust your instincts at such places and times. We don’t know everything; we weren’t meant to. A pleasure to view and read.
October 21, 2015 at 3:04 pm
Thanks, I am glad you enjoyed it! It is definitely the most magical place I have discovered in a while.
October 24, 2015 at 1:04 pm
Oooh, that does sound a little unwelcoming! I would have been a bit spooked too. How very magical, though. Looking forward to your next posts!
October 24, 2015 at 1:24 pm
Well perhaps I was letting my imagination run away with me a bit, but nothing wrong with that!
October 24, 2015 at 1:32 pm
I’m all for observing what happens in and around these sites – I don’t think anything is truly ‘coincidence’.
October 25, 2015 at 1:13 pm
Interesting! You can definitely pick up on the energy of these places. The fairies you describe sound like Christian propoganda of the ancient pagan people once associated with the place. I have found this lot with such places here in Ireland. Such a shame. It looks like a magical leaceful place and your photos are lovely!
October 25, 2015 at 5:54 pm
It is quite a place, with an eerie atmosphere. I love all the fairy stories from Brittany – just like Ireland, it’s full of little folk!
October 26, 2015 at 10:59 am
Yes, they seem to have some similar heritage and customs, and a LOT of history and archaeology too!
October 28, 2015 at 9:19 pm
I’m so pleased you make these visits – I really feel the atmosphere from your accounts – wonderful! Have you been to see the Celts exhibition at the British Museum? I think you’d really enjoy it.
October 29, 2015 at 8:43 am
Thanks for your lovely comment! I haven’t made it to the BM yet, but I definitely will – it looks amazing.